Recipe #6: 'Pressed Potatoes' (page 149)

This recipe never sounded that interesting but seemed simple enough.  I figured I could knock one out quickly, perhaps use it as the base for another recipe (as Fergus' recommends) and possibly be enlightened by the end result exceeding my expectations which were low.

I did my shopping post-work day sans shopping list.  Of course the ingredients needed for this formula are few but no matter that, I failed and purchased a potato not waxy enough (Russet) to do the job properly (Yukon Gold are recommended).  In my own ignorant defense, the only potatoes I ever use are reds, usually of the creamer variety.  And when I use them, their starch content is not a point of important note.

Which leads back to the motivations for using or even having created this recipe.  With an initial cursory inspection it seems that this recipe is destined to create a starchy, dense cake of potatoes.  I did not know why this would be appetizing before I began but I had to bet that by the end I would have learned the answer.  I did in fact learn something but that particular solution continues to elude me.

As directed I boiled the peeled potatoes then sliced them into sturdy 1/2" slices.  I was using a small loaf pan, approximately 8" x 3".  I lined it with a (used) cut up ziplock bag as I disdain plastic wrap.  I seasoned aggressively and likely went beyond the intended use of capers.  I am all for subtlety but these dull, floury potatoes screamed out for something to assist them.  Looking back perhaps a bottle of catsup would have done better.

I weighted them with a number of items as I was already thinking that my potatoes were not of the correct strain to succeed in this arena; perhaps overcompensating in another direction would make up lost ground.  I found that a standard size VHS tape was almost the exact size and surely rigid enough to distribute the weight.

At first I reached for a large 'paperweight' which was not currently fastening down any print caught up in the cyclonic breeze that storms through my small abode.  Last summer I moved probably 1000 lbs of decorative stone from the front to rear yards at my grandfather's house.  I had a small tractor and trailer to assist but still had to load and unload the rocks manually.  This single remaining stone weighs 7 lbs. probably and we laughed at its tiny volume compared to the other boulders.  My grandfather said that I should take it home as a paperweight and I did not argue.  However in this application I decided that it was not heavy enough so I used my Williams-Sonoma molcajete as well.

In the end I allowed my spuds to remain under weight for nearly 20 hours, during which time I brainstormed furiously using only Fergus' few words of advice as inspiration:

"It is a wonderful base for oily, salty things"

He then specifically recommends the use of whole anchovy filets and olive oil followed by an eel stew laid out on other pages.  Eels being difficult to source, and unwilling to undertake that at this time I decided I would be using my own cookery skill.

I knew I would use anchovies.  I knew I would cook in olive oil.  After that, my brain shouted TOMATOES.  I don't know why but that was my starting point.  I spent sometime on the net looking at various recipes and kicking around ideas.  I readied myself for the decanting of my potatoes and finalized my plans.

There was clearly not enough starch content in my potatoes to hold them together.  Also I likely left far too many gaps in my layering, likely I should have wasted 10% of each potato so that they were perfectly square and tiled in the loaf pan.  Bu for a moment let us try to forget the construction of these potatoes and focus on their flavor.  Seasoned well, yes.  The capers did little to nothing, I dreamt that they would inject their saltiness into the potatoes but to no avail.  A total waste.  And how did Fergus' intend that you serve these? I guess I can see pouring the hot eel stew over them such that they become reheated but otherwise they will need to spend a few moments in the nuclear box: a useful appliance no doubt but one by no means suited to the food I hope to create from these pages.

But inspired not was I!  I trudged on with my recipe.  I portioned off a few slices of my rapidly shattering potatoes and began to build my full entree.

I began by rendering a can of anchovies into the oil from their can, I never waste this precious stuff.  Next came most of a medium sized fennel bulb minus its greenery and upper extremities.  The half disintegrated salted fish dirtied the licorice plant matter and a few cloves of fresh chopped garlic chased them.  A jar of marinated artichoke hearts and another of anchovy stuffed olives (a total disappointment, anchovies were non existent) were well drained and kicked into the T-Fal.  As it sizzled I prepared a single filet of catfish with standard seasoning and dosed a second (teflon) pan with more oil.

I considered the use of tarragon but denied its entrance as I worried for an overdose of anise flavor from the fennel.  This was likely unfounded in the end and in tonite's follow up it shall be called to arms.  Two bags of very fresh, sweet and delicious cherry tomatoes got to know the already sizzling mass in my pan.  I stabbed each and every one with my trusty Kuhn-Ricon paring knife and as they rendered a few passes of red wine vinegar was added to temper their sugar content.  Further balance was attempted with a large shake of dried Allepo pepper flakes.

My disassembled but 'pressed' potatoes met gamma rays within the cube - my tomato and fennel relish topped them, and my catfish filet leaned above them both with fennel fronds to garnish.  Success amongst failure!